Keep Your Home Comfortable With Quality HVAC Services In Hamden CT
X-Treme Temp Heating & Cooling is your go-to HVAC service provider in Hamden, CT! We’re the experts in home comfort year-round, from AC and heating repair to ductwork and water heaters. We’ve got you covered from installation to maintenance so you can have peace of mind about your heating and air conditioning.
Read the reviews below from Hamden, CT residents to see what your neighbors say about our expertise and customer service. We can’t wait to work with you!
Local Reviews
for Hamden, CT
Our Reviews by City
Great service
Chris - Hamden, CT 06518
Good job, prompt and informed.
Response from X-Treme Temp Heating & Cooling, LLC:
We are so grateful for your 5-star review. Thanks for sharing your rating with us and the community.
Good service
Chis - Hamden, CT 06518
All good. Thks
Very Professional Service!
Laura - Hamden, CT 06518
Very reliable and knowledgeable staff
Great service
TE - Hamden, CT 06518
Andrew was a wonderful young man. He was most courteous and very helpful in explaining what was needed to be done on the boiler.
Great Service
Chis - Hamden, CT 06518
Courteous, on time, efficient , professional
excellent service!!
Laura Roberts - Hamden, CT 06518
Excellent and prompt
Christine - Hamden, CT 06518
Courteous technician fixed our unit quickly. Great price.
Very professional service
candice - Hamden, CT 06517
Good
Joe - Hamden, CT 06518
Awesome service
Bernadette - Hamden, CT 06517
The technician was friendly and professional answered all my questions. The answering personal working the phones are also wonderful. Would highly recommend
Great service
John - Hamden, CT 06514
Andrew was very nice , respectable and polite polite.
Andrew H.
Upon arrival unit was on but not running. Temp in the house was 73 and the thermostat was set to 71. Turned temp up to 76 and unit started up with no issue. Cycled unit on and off multiple times with no issues. Checked all radiators and all of them were getting hot. Compared the thermostat temp to a temp probe and found the thermostat is reading 3 degrees warmer than the indoor temp is. Most thermostats have a 3* temperature variance. The thermostat may be starting to go bad. Adjusted the hi and low limits on the boiler aquastat so the burner will run for longer periods of time. Unit is working properly.
Andrew H.
Brushed and vacuumed flue pipe and heat exchanger Replaced oil filter, nozzle, and strainer Checked all electrical connections and safeties Performed combustion and smoke tests 7.8%o2 48ppm co 0 smoke When arriving unit was off on reset. Pushed reset button and furnace lit right away. Checked oil flow and had good flow. Checked the igniter and saw the spark was an orange/yellow color indicating it is getting weak. After getting customer authorization we replaced the igniter. Started and tested unit. Unit is working properly.
Andrew H.
Upon arrival unit was on but not running. Ran hot water and the water heater turned on with no issue. Checked oil flow and had ok flow. Checked the nozzle and found it was dripping with oil on the end cone and in the blast tube. Replaced the nozzle and started the water heater. We found when the furnace turned on while the water heater was running the water heater would turn off. Upon further investigation we found the oil filter by the wall was starting to get dirty and restricting the oil flow. Since the furnace is closest to the filter the majority of the oil was flowing to the furnace and making the water heater turn off. Replaced the oil filter and bled the oil line. Also removed the oil filter from the filter canister by the water heater because the oil filter at the wall is rated for 2 appliances. Started and tested the water heater by itself and when the furnace was running as well. Unit is working properly.
Larry H.
Performed a heating pm on an oil boiler. Brushed and vacuumed. Replaced the oil filter, nozzle and strainer. Started and checked the safeties. Performed a combustion test. 5.7% o2, 0 ppm, 86.3% efficient System is operating properly. There is a cup under the pressure relief valve with a small amount of water/ glycol in it. The valve is currently not leaking and the pressure is at 20psi. If the valve starts to leak more, recommend replacing the pressure relief valve.
Andrew H.
Disconnected wires for the old zone valve and removed the old zone valve. Installed new zone valve and reconnected all wires. Removed old thermostat from the wall and installed a new Honeywell t4 thermostat. Started and tested the heat in the entry way zone. Unit is working properly.
Andrew H.
Brushed and vacuumed flue pipe and heat exchanger Replaced oil filter, nozzle, and strainer Checked all electrical connections and safeties Performed combustion and smoke tests 13.5%o2 26ppm co 0 smoke While performing the maintenance we found higher than normal levels of sludge at the oil filter canister. After getting customer authorization we added sludge additive to the oil tank. When taking the flue pipe apart one of the flue pipe 90’s broke apart due to rust and corrosion. Was able to put it back together but the 90 was too rusted to be able to rotate. Had to replace the flue pipe 90. Recommend replacing the remaining sections of flue pipe due to age and corrosion. While performing the combustion test we found the crack in the heat exchanger is slightly larger than last year. Opened the inspection door of the furnace and was able to visually see multiple spots where the sheet metal of the heat exchanger has holes. Showed the customer with an inspection mirror. Recommend repla
Andrew H.
Removed zone valve and replaced with new one. Installed zone panel and connected all zone valves to the zone panel. Started and tested all zones to ensure proper operation. Bled radiators and made sure all radiators were functioning. While testing zone 3 for the air handler we found that the water was continuously circulating when there was no call for heat but the fan was not turning on. After further investigation we found the freeze stat clamped by the air handler was bad. The freeze stat thought the pipes were cold and was turning on the circulator pump and opening the zone valve. Need to replace the freeze stat.
Andrew H.
Performed oil pm on oil boiler Brushed and vacuumed flue pipe and heat exchanger Replaced oil filter, nozzle, and strainer Checked all electrical connections and safeties Performed combustion and smoke tests 7.0%o2 30ppm co 0 smoke Performed ac pm on both systems Visually inspected indoor evap coil and blower compartment Checked all electrical connections and safeties Checked volts and amps Visually inspected air filter Rinsed condenser coil Blew out drain line and poured water to ensure properly draining Tested condensate pump Checked refrigerant levels Checked capacitor Took temps While testing the ac unit in the closet of the front of the house we found that the heat and ac were running at the same time. Upon further investigation we found the zone valve we diagnosed as bad last year hooked up. When we left the property last year we had the zone valve disconnected because it was stuck in the open position and was continuously sending hot water to the air handler. Disconnect
Andrew H.
Upon arrival unit was off inspected evap coil and air filter and both were good. Poured water down the drain line and found no blockages. Started the system. Air handler and condenser fan turned on but no compressor. Upon further inspection we found the capacitor for the compressor had gone bad and had a terminal shorted out. Replaced the capacitor and the wire terminal for the compressor wire. Started and tested the system. Checked the refrigerant levels and system was working properly. Had 48* supply air when leaving
Andrew H.
Upon arrival u it was off. Customer stated the oil tank was empty and they got a delivery the other day. Bled oil line and saw some sludge. Checked the nozzle and found heavy carbon buildup on the nozzle and nozzle assembly. Cleaned the carbon buildup and replaced the nozzle. Slightly adjusted the electrodes. Bled the oil line again and started the boiler. Performed combustion test and adjusted the air and fuel. Unit was running at 5.6%o2 45ppm co. Added oil sludge additive to the oil tank and had customer verify the oil fill cap was on the pipe.
Andrew H.
Visually inspected indoor evap coil and blower compartment Checked all electrical connections and safeties Checked volts and amps Visually inspected air filter Rinsed condenser coil Blew out drain line and poured water to ensure properly draining Tested condensate pump Checked refrigerant levels Checked capacitor Took temps While performing the maintenance we found the unit was slightly low on refrigerant. After getting customer authorization we added 9 oz R410A bringing the subcooling from 5.2 up to 12
Andrew H.
Upon arrival unit was turned on but only the indoor unit was running. Upon investigation we found the disconnect box had the power off. Turned the power back on and the unit started back up. Checked refrigerant levels and found the system has a good charge. Pressures were 70/210 with 19* superheat which is within manufacturer’s specifications. Unit is working properly.
Larry H.
Performed an A/C pm on 2 systems. The customer replaced the air filter. Blew out the drain lines and checked the condensate pump. Washed the condenser coils. Checked the electrical connections, pressures and temperatures. Added 8 oz R22 to the 1st fl system. Systems are operating properly.
Larry H.
Checked systems. The water heater was not off on reset and it was up to temperature. Started and tested. The furnace was off on reset. Reset the control and it started. When the burner was running, the flame was rumbling. Checked the oil flow and found the nozzle partially plugged causing the oil to spray everywhere inside the chamber. Replaced the nozzle and burned off the excess oil in the chamber. Started several times. System is operating properly. The nozzle may have became partially plugged after running out of oil.
Larry H.
Performed an A/C pm on the system. Replaced the air filter. 14x30x1 Blew out the drain line. Rinsed the condenser coil. Checked the electrical connections, pressures and temperatures. System is operating properly.
Andrew H.
Upon arrival furnace was off on reset. Pressed reset button and furnace lit but was rumbling. Checked the oil flow and had great flow. Checked the nozzle and saw it had been dripping for some time and there was carbon buildup on the nozzle and beneath it. Replaced the nozzle and cleaned the carbon. Started and tested the furnace. Cycled it on and off multiple times to burn off all residual oil. Performed combustion test. Unit is running at 8.4%o2 60ppm co 0 smoke
Larry H.
Drain pressure out of the boiler. Remove old boiler gauge and replace with a new one. Fill system back up with water and purge all air out of the system. Start and test the boiler. Ensure hot water is coming back to the boiler on the return.
Andrew H.
Upon arrival unit was on and running. Upon inspection found that there was a large amount of air in the system causing one of the zones to get air bound and not have heat. Attempted to purge the zones and found that the autofeed was not letting enough pressure into the system to purge all air out. After getting customer authorization we replaced the autofeed backflow combo. Purged most air out of the 4 zones. While purging the air we found the pressure gauge is stuck at 22 and is not moving. Need to return on Wednesday to replace the pressure gauge and finish getting all air out of the system.
Andrew H.
Upon arrival found a small drip underneath the burner and a small drip under the oil filter canister. Replaced the filter gaskets and filter and found that before the canister was fully full it was dripping from the bottom. Upon further inspection found there was some rust on the inside of the canister and it is possible there is a small pinhole leak forming. Replaced the filter canister and gaskets. Bled air from the filter canister and did not see any further leaks. Also found that the nozzle had started to go bad and was dripping inside of the blast tube. This would cause the oil to run back down the blast tube and drip from the bottom of the burner. Replaced the nozzle and started and tested the system. Unit is working properly
Larry H.
When arrived the water heater burner was off on reset. Reset the control and it started. Checked the oil flow which was strong and clean. Checked the transformer, the spark was weak which will cause the burner to trip intermittently. Replaced the transformer, started and tested several times. System is operating properly.
Larry H.
The primary control was off on a hard lockout. Reset the control. The burner did not start. Checked oil flow. Bled oil line. Customer was out of oil.
Andrew H.
Brushed and vacuumed flue pipe and heat exchanger Replaced oil filter, nozzle and strainer Checked all electrical connections and safeties Performed combustion and smoke tests 5.4%o2 23ppm co 0 smoke While performing the maintenance we found that there was air in the lines. Notified the customer and recommended purging the zones. After getting customer authorization we purged both zones of all air. Started and tested the boiler and had hot water coming back. Boiler pressure when leaving was 18/19
Andrew H.
Brushed and vacuumed flue pipe and heat exchanger Replaced oil filter, nozzle and strainer Checked all electrical connections and safeties Performed combustion and smoke tests 5.1%o2 2ppm co 0 smoke
Andrew H.
Brushed and vacuumed flue pipe and heat exchanger Replaced oil filter, nozzle and strainer Checked all electrical connections and safeties Performed combustion and smoke tests 5.1%o2 0ppm co 0 smoke
Andrew H.
Upon arrival started to perform leak search. Inspected evaporator coil, condenser coil, and lineset where accessible. Did not see any traces of us dye. Started and tested the system and had roughly the same pressures as after the refrigerant was added. The leak could be a pinhole and just starting to form causing refrigerant levels to not drop at a significant rate. Recommend evaluating the system next year.
